Where to stay in Girona: Barri Vell or Mercadal

Girona sits under an hour from Barcelona but feels like another world, quieter and more genuine. Pastel houses mirror themselves in the river Onyar, a monumental staircase climbs to the cathedral, and behind it opens one of the best-preserved Jewish quarters in Europe, a maze of stone lanes that fans of a famous TV series will recognise at once. It is a small, rich city to take slowly: staying overnight, rather than visiting on a day trip from Barcelona or the Costa Brava, is the way to enjoy it in the evening, when the streets empty out.

The centre is split by the river: on one side the old town climbing uphill, on the other the modern, flat part. Here is how the areas really feel, with indicative prices and the places worth having nearby.

Where to stay in Girona, area by area

The Barri Vell, the old town

On the eastern bank of the Onyar spreads the Barri Vell, the medieval heart crowned by the Cathedral and its huge staircase. Here you find El Call, the old Jewish quarter with the most evocative lanes, and the city walls to walk along the top. Sleeping here is the right call for anyone who loves history and atmosphere, with the only downside the climbs and cobbles.

• The Cathedral and its staircase (seen in a well-known TV series)
• The lanes of El Call, the Jewish quarter
• The Arab Baths and the basilica of Sant Feliu
• The walk on the city walls with the view over the roofs

To stay in the historic heart, look for a stay in the Barri Vell.

The Onyar and the Rambla

Along the river, between the famous colourful houses of the Onyar and the red bridge designed by Eiffel's firm, beats the livelier Girona. The arcaded Rambla de la Llibertat is full of cafes and shops. It is a very central spot, between the old town and the new, ideal for having everything to hand and the best views.

• The colourful houses reflected in the river
• The Eiffel bridge at the Peixateries Velles
• The arcades and cafes of the Rambla de la Llibertat
• The markets and street life along the river

For a central spot with river views, see stays along the Onyar.

The Mercadal and the Eixample

On the western bank, the modern, flat part of the city turns around the Placa de la Independencia, with its arcades and restaurants, and the streets of the Eixample. Here the hotels are often larger and cheaper, with no climbs, and you eat very well in the evening. It is the practical choice for anyone after convenience and good prices, with the old town a few minutes away on foot across the bridge.

• The Placa de la Independencia and its restaurants
• The shopping streets of the Eixample
• The tapas bars and evening life
• Flat ground, easy with luggage

For convenience and better prices, look for hotels in the Mercadal.

Near the station

Around the railway station you find modern, practical hotels, handy for arriving by train or using Girona as a base for the Costa Brava and Figueres. The station is on the high-speed line, so from here you reach Barcelona in a little over half an hour, and the old centre is a few minutes away on foot.

• Girona station, on the high-speed line
• Modern hotels and often lower prices
• Handy for Barcelona, the Costa Brava and Figueres
• A few minutes on foot from the centre

For train convenience and better prices, look for hotels near the station.

What it costs

Indicative figures: Catalonia is around the Spanish average, and Girona costs less than Barcelona.

• A double room in a mid-range 3-4 star: roughly 80-140 euros a night; prices rise during the flower festival.
• A dinner for two of Catalan cooking with wine: about 45-70 euros in a good restaurant; Girona is also home to El Celler de Can Roca, among the world's best.
• Coffee: around 1.50 to 2 euros; a cana with a tapa a few euros.
• Transport: Girona is entirely walkable, you do not need it.
• Tourist tax: the Catalan regional tax (IEET) is roughly 1 to 2 euros per person per night depending on category (about 1.80 for a 4-star), with under-16s exempt. Catalonia is raising it, so check the current amount.

To get a real sense before you choose, compare current prices in Girona.

Getting there and around

Girona has its own airport, Girona-Costa Brava (GRO), about 12 km away, used mostly by low-cost carriers and in season. The alternative is Barcelona (BCN), about 100 km away, from which you arrive easily by train. The best way, in fact, is the high-speed rail: Barcelona to Girona takes about 38 minutes, and links to Figueres and the French border are frequent.

In town you do not need a car: everything is within walking distance, between the old town and the modern part split by the river. A car or buses only help for trips to the Costa Brava and Figueres, for the Dali museum.

When to go

• January-March: cool and quiet, low prices, a silent and genuine city.
• April-June: a lovely spring; in mid-May the Temps de Flors fills patios and monuments with flowers, a huge event with rooms to book well ahead.
• July-August: warm, an excellent base for the Costa Brava beaches, busier.
• September-October: maybe the best window, mild weather, harvest and fewer people.
• November-December: cool and quiet, good prices and an intimate mood among the lanes.

Good to know

Barri Vell or Mercadal? The Barri Vell for atmosphere and history, with some climbs; the Mercadal for convenience, restaurants and prices, flat across the river. They are minutes apart on foot.

Do I need a car in Girona? Not in town, everything is on foot. You only need it for the Costa Brava, which is reachable by bus or train anyway.

Is it true a famous TV series was filmed here? Yes, the old town was a set for well-known productions, from the cathedral staircase to the lanes of the Call.

How much is the tourist tax? Roughly 1 to 2 euros per person per night depending on category, free for under-16s; Catalonia is raising it, so it is worth checking.

How many days do I need? Two nights: one for the old town and the walls, the other for a trip to Figueres or the Costa Brava.

Before you book, compare live prices in Girona on Edenfinder and pick the area that fits your trip.