Where to stay in Cesky Krumlov: centre or Latran

Cesky Krumlov is one of those places that seem drawn for a fairytale: a tangle of red roofs caught in a bend of the Vltava, dominated by a huge castle with a painted tower, all wrapped in a medieval, UNESCO-listed centre. By day the coaches arrive from Prague and the lanes fill up; in the evening, once the day-trippers leave, the town turns quiet and magical, lit up over the water. That is why it should be slept in, not just seen on a day trip: it is how you get it at its best.

The centre is tiny and entirely pedestrian, but the choice of area changes convenience and price. Here is how they really feel, with indicative prices and the places worth having nearby.

Where to stay in Cesky Krumlov, area by area

The historic centre (Vnitrni Mesto)

The heart is the inner town on the river bend, around Namesti Svornosti, the main square, with cobbled lanes, charming pensions and restaurants facing the Vltava. Sleeping here is the real experience, with everything on foot and the best atmosphere in the evening. Reckon with the cobbles, the steps and the fact that cars do not come in: you leave them at the car parks on the edge of town.

• Namesti Svornosti and its lanes
• The Church of St Vitus above the roofs
• The Egon Schiele Art Centrum, dedicated to the painter
• The terrace restaurants on the Vltava

To stay in the historic heart, look for a stay in the centre of Cesky Krumlov.

Latran and the castle

Across the river, the Latran quarter climbs towards the huge Cesky Krumlov Castle, with its painted tower, covered bridge and a baroque theatre among the best preserved in the world. It is an equally old, evocative side, with lovely views of the roofs across the water. Great for anyone who loves atmosphere and wants the castle a step away.

• The Cesky Krumlov Castle and the painted tower
• The castle's baroque theatre
• The castle gardens and the covered bridge
• The views of the inner town from the far bank

To sleep below the castle, see stays in Latran.

Plesivec and the edge of town

Just outside the historic loop, towards Plesivec and the edges of town, there are cheaper pensions and hotels, with easier parking and still a few minutes on foot from the centre. It is the practical choice for anyone arriving by car, for families and for those who want to spend less without giving up being close.

• Pensions and hotels with parking, handy by car
• Lower prices than the historic centre
• A few minutes on foot to the square
• A more residential, quieter side

For better prices and parking, look for stays in Plesivec.

Along the Vltava, out of the centre

Anyone after quiet and nature chooses places along the river or just outside town, handy for those who in summer want to paddle the Vltava by canoe or raft, among the area's most loved activities. They are often cheaper and quieter, with the centre reachable on foot or in a few minutes by car.

• Canoe and raft trips on the Vltava in summer
• Places with a garden and a river view
• Lower prices and more quiet
• A few minutes from the historic centre

For nature and river out of the centre, look for stays around Cesky Krumlov.

What it costs

Indicative figures: the Czech Republic uses the koruna (CZK, about 25 per euro) and is affordable, though Cesky Krumlov, very touristy, costs a little more than the Czech average.

• A double room in a mid-range 3-4 star: roughly 60-110 euros a night, higher in summer and December.
• A dinner for two of Bohemian cooking with beer: about 35-55 euros in a restaurant.
• Czech beer: often 2-3 euros on tap; a coffee around 2 euros.
• Transport: the centre is entirely walkable, you do not need it.
• Tourist tax: the poplatek z pobytu is 50 koruna per person per night (about 2 euros), the maximum allowed in the Czech Republic. You pay it at your accommodation.

To get a real sense before you choose, compare current prices in Cesky Krumlov.

Getting there and around

Cesky Krumlov has no airport: the reference hubs are Prague (PRG), about 170 km away (two and a half hours, three by bus), and Linz (LNZ), in Austria, about 70 km. From Prague and from nearby Ceske Budejovice there are frequent buses and trains; the direct bus from Prague is the handiest and cheapest way.

In town you do not need a car and it gets in the way: the historic centre is pedestrian and restricted traffic, you leave the car at the edge car parks and walk down. Everything is close, but reckon with steps and cobbles, so light luggage and comfortable shoes.

When to go

• January-March: cold and quiet, the town almost empty and magical under snow, lower prices.
• April-June: a lovely spring, mild weather and fewer crowds early; in June the Five-Petalled Rose Festival takes the town back to the Renaissance.
• July-August: high season, very crowded by day, but perfect for the Vltava by canoe; book ahead.
• September-October: maybe the best window, autumn colours, mist on the river and fewer people.
• December: Advent and the markets, with snow turning the town into a postcard; cold but enchanting.

Good to know

Should I stay overnight or is a day trip enough? Stay overnight: Cesky Krumlov is one of the most popular day trips from Prague, and in the evening, with no coaches, it becomes a different place, quiet and lit up.

Centre or the edges? The historic centre for atmosphere and being on foot; the edges like Plesivec for better prices and parking.

Do I need a car? Not in town, pedestrian and restricted traffic: you leave it at the entrance car parks. A car is handy only to arrive and for the surroundings.

How much is the tourist tax? 50 koruna per person per night, about 2 euros, the maximum in the Czech Republic.

How many days do I need? One or two nights: one for the centre and the castle, the other to enjoy it slowly after the day-trippers leave.

Before you book, compare live prices in Cesky Krumlov on Edenfinder and pick the area that fits your trip.